Here are a few quick builds and lenses to help you quickly create a naval character for a sci-fi space opera setting. The reason posts have been a bit light recently is because of the Salute wargaming convention this weekend so I’ve been preparing for that. Will post more soon. I hope you find these useful to your game; like anything for GURPS they can be used to make PCs and NPCs. Game on.
A ‘Conversion’ refers to a very specific type of miniature project. There’s no hard and fast rule on how to define this but I’ll do my best. Basically, when a model is converted it means that the modeller has taken pieces from elsewhere, often other kits and added them to a model in order to make it unique. It’s an incredibly fun past time of mine and I’d probably say it’s my favourite part about wargaming in general. Making unique characters and units is very fun. It’s very similar to scratch building a model but not as extreme.
A few of my most beloved miniatures are converted ones and I’d just like to talk about things that are important should you really want to customise your own figures to the max. First of all, save everything. Even the sprues if you can. You never know when you may need that pelt pouch that came with your 40k orks you bought when you were fifteen. This is of course not very space friendly and sprues quickly end up being more effort than they are worth. Instead however, you may want to keep what collectors refer to as a ‘bitz box’. Put in a bit of time and cut off all the spare parts from your sprues and store them in a box (or in my case multiple boxes). I use the plastic boxes that come with takeaway food. It might be a good idea for you, if you have a particular large amount of spare parts to organise them into categories like weapons, sci-fi/fantasy, torsos, etc.
I think it’s also worth talking about non-component related things you should keep a stock of if you like adapting your own minis. The top thing of this is putty; Milliput and Green Stuff. That stuff is a godsend allowing you to fashion parts for things you don’t usually have. Green Stuff is usually better as Milliput is very brittle, making extremely fine detail things impossible. However, Green Stuff is significantly more expensive but is generally how most miniatures that you own start out as before being turned into moulds for plastic and metal. Both are two part epoxies that generally don’t have a shelf life, buy some today, finish using it in five years’ time. To the right here is a picture of a model I converted, something I added a little bit more character to. It was originally a ‘high inquisitor’ miniature produced for D&D 3.5. However, with the exorbitant prices Games Workshop was asking for their Witch Hunter model, which frankly I don’t like very much, I decided I would adapt this guy into something more lore friendly and characterful of the Old World. I started by highliting the trims with gold and washing the model in a dark army painter tone. I then used Milliput to increase the height of the hat to make it look more like the witch hunters of Warhammer.
I decided I didn’t like the torch and cut it off, replacing it with a pistol I fashioned from the head of a great-ax from the orc sprues that Mantic produce. I added a second pistol to his belt because a witch hunter surelyneed a brace of them not just one. I then read that Witch Hunters often cover themselves in weapons due to the danger of their work. As a result of this, I added two thin swords to his back. After painting his boots rather than keeping them black and colouring the hat extension I had something I was happy with. It was very easy and made the mini stand out in a much more lore-friendly and distinctive way.
Attached is a copy of the some unofficial spell rules for Dragon Rampant. These add the spells for playing games within Games Workshop’s Warhammer setting
Overview
So a few weeks ago I got hold of a copy of Dragon Rampant, the fantasy battle rules by Osprey Publishing. The game was released in 2015 and the rules were written by Daniel Mersey, the same delightful chap who did Lion Rampant, the historical medieval rules by Osprey. Anyone coming from Lion Rampant will quickly be at home here as much of the rules are the same. However, Dragon Rampant adds a great deal of fantasy flavour, as to be expected. The book is a fairly slim, approachable volume weighing in at 64 pages. The book itself is clearly laid out (though not indexed) with some stunning artwork. The art really is wonderful, as is usually the case with Osprey. It retails from Osprey themselves for £11.99. Within you will find rules for how to run a battle, as well as the usual wargame stuff; how to handle terrain, how to form cohesive units from your vast collection of miniatures. What is important however is that the rules are generic and allow you to build your own unit types, permitting you the use of any models in your collection. The game generally favours fun over competitiveness, with luck playing a rather large amount in activation of units.
Mechanics
The game uses d6’s and I can tell you, you will never need more than twelve at once, which is a nice change of pace from games where you find you run out of dice and have to start rerolling the ones you’ve already used. When it is your turn, you select one unit that has not been activated yet and choose one of three actions, ‘move’, ‘shoot’ or ‘attack’. To represent the line of command, as well as the unit’s individual discipline, you must roll two dice to determine whether the unit follows your command. If it does, then you carry out the activation as normal, if it doesn’t, it ends your turn. In the games we played I approached this mechanic tentatively, expecting to not like the loss of control it inevitably means. However, once we started playing I realised it was great! IT makes the game move faster because it’s always flipping between whose turn it is. It keeps everyone playing involved in the game and is much more inclusive than a true I-GO-U-GO setup. Another unpredictability in the usage of unit’s is the ‘Wild Charge’ mechanic. Units with this special rule must attempt to charge the enemy if they are within range. It creates some very interesting emergent gameplay and makes the game feel like you as commander have to be more reactive rather than calculating every move with utmost delicacy. In this sense I feel as though Dragon Rampant is the most ‘real’ fantasy wargame I’ve ever played. I feel more like a commander having to send out his orders and react to the unexpected tides of battle. It feels more like a battle and less like chess.
Every February the York Wargames Society hosts a wargaming convention called Vapnartak. I’ve been lucky enough to be able to attend for the last three years and had a blast every time (and even once managed to convince my partner to go with me). They have a good balance of traders, participation games and demonstrations on, as well as a very good table sale. The convention is split over three floors of the Knavesmire Stand at York Racecourse, with usually the big tables being on the ground floor and the traders sprinkled about all three. For anyone who has a love of miniatures and can get there within the day, I’d recommend it. There’s often several of the big names in the industry there; Warlord, Pendraken, Mantic (though Mantic were not there this year). Of course, Games Workshop doesn’t attend.
This year I noticed that easily the largest game being played was a game of Kings of War by Mantic Games. It was an interesting sight to see, as the game has only recently surged in popularity, especially with the release of its second edition. To see it being played at an event and even binge the biggest game there was nice because I’ve felt for the last few years that Kings of War is superior to Warhammer.
When it comes to painting miniatures I’ve always found that the world is divided. Some people like prepaints, I’m assuming that’s why Heroclix does so well, and some people like to paint them themselves.
Ever since historical wargaming people have collected miniatures and painted them, and with the surge in the popularity in games in the 70’s when Dungeons and Dragons was first released the beginning of the MegaCorp Games Workshop began humbly selling small pewter miniatures for use with D&D, Traveller, and of course, HeroQuest.
GW eventually released Warhammer, and sequentially Warhammer 40,000; the biggest most popular miniature wargame. I’ll admit that the prospect of painting hundreds of plastic miniatures seems daunting, but I can never seem to be able to break away from the hobby, not just because of the gaming, but because of the collecting and painting. One of the main appeals of the hobby is painting, because you are putting your thoughts and desires into the miniature and at the heart of it all, you want your army to stand out and not just be Ork army number 837, at least that’s what it is for me.
But at the same time, I’ll admit that painting is the scourge of the hobby; it’s repetitive and games that come with prepaints seem like a such a better idea, but time and time again it’s proven that the standard of the paint work done on prepaints is far below the standard you could do yourself. I remember my adolescent self and a several friends laughing our heads of at the mustache of prepainted D&D mini, because it instead looked like a sad face rather than a mustache.
Tannhauser, the boardgame comes with prepaints and on this sort of level it always seemed ok because you are only using a few miniatures and if I’m perfectly honest, despise the fact that I feel I should paint my unpainted Super Dungeon Explore and Talisman figures simply because they’re unpainted.
I find that unpainted miniatures for a boardgame is fine; nobody cares, but as soon as someone turns up to the table with an unpainted Cygnar force, people begin to take note. There is no reason for that. Game on. Paint or no paint.
Vault of the Geek 